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Ayi is 50 years old, smiling eyes, hair falling down her back. She comes from a rural province in eastern China and does not have a resident's permit that would allow her to work legally in Shanghai.
Yet, she has been cooking in the street for 20 years, in the heart of a Shanghai neighbourhood condemned to imminent destruction. Ayi and women surrounding her struggle to make a living and avoid the Chengguan, the municipal police.
The film exposes the chaos of an ultra-modern city working towards the extinction of practices deemed insalubrious and the eviction of an unwanted population, embodied by Ayi.